Stylish and colourful; I just love these traditional Korean clothing shown in so many historical films and series. This part will be about the different Korean hats.
I am really not a fashionista. Sure I like nice clothing, but it doesn’t matter to me if it is a brand or if it is even fashionable. After watching a lot of historical dramas I came to the conclusion I just really liked the historical Korean style of clothing. The garments are colourful and neat. They are looking rich and complex, without being overly decorated. Joseon clothes also give you a direct impression of whom you are dealing with (status, job, money, gender, marital status, …).
Korean hats for men (Joseon period)
In this first part I want to make you familiar with the different kind of hats Korean men wore in the Joseon period.
The top student on the government test received a hat decorated with flowers. As a bonus they also received 3 days of vacation. I’m sure the chicks flocked around this dude on the beach.
Baekrip – 백립
White hat. Worn at funeral and during the period of mourning. I think it is worn for about 100 days after the funeral, but I’m not sure about this.
Banggat / Bangrip – 방립
Straw hat. Used by travelling monks.
Bokkeon – 복건
For scholars and boys.
Gat / Heung Lip / Heukrip – 갓 / 흑립
Made from horsehair. Worn by upper class.
Hogeon – 호건
Similar to Bokkeon, but with tiger pattern. Worn by boys till the age of 5 or 6.
Ik Seon Gwan / Sa Mo – 익선관 / 사모 / 翼善冠
Long hat for the king and crown prince.
Jegwan – 제관
For lower officials during events.
Jeonrip / Beonggeoji / Byeongrip – 전 립 / 戰笠 / 벙거지 / 병립
Jung Ja Gwan / Jeongjagwan – 정자관 / 程子冠
Indoor hat with peaks for noblemen.
Jurip – 주립
Any kind of hat that is red in color. Commonly seen to be worn by the guards.
Myeonryugwan – 면류관 / 冕旒冠
For the king and the crown prince. Special occasions (weddings). The more strings the better. We use this to prevent flies from entering our homes.
Delegates on missions abroad.
Pae Reangi – 패랭이
Made from straw or bamboo. For commoners and farmers.
Samo – 사모
For government officials. With and without flaps at the back, depending on the rank. In a period for national mourning the usual black samo was replaced by a white one (Baeksamo). Samo means: made of thin silk.
Bridegrooms were also allowed to wear it during the ceremony.
The samo was already in use in the Goryeo period.
Satgat – 삿갓
Conical shaped hat. Protects against sunlight and rain.
Tanggeon – 탕건
Tongcheongwan – 通天冠
Coronet of heavenly communicator.
Yanggwan – 양관
Golden jegwan. Worn by officials during a wedding ceremony or a prayer ceremony (for example the ceremony practiced at Chuseok: a big Autumn harvest festival). It can also be used at other ceremonies.
This nice looking crown was worn by the king and crown prince when having the morning court. It was also used for New Year’s Day, Dongjitnal (the day when the full moon lasts the longest), on the 1st and 15th days of the lunar month, when meeting with foreign envoys and when writing diplomatic notes to China. If someone puts on a different hat to write me a note, it would surely make me look at the message in a completely different way.
Remember these beads which are dangling from the gat? They have a name.
Gwanja – 관자
Small buttons on Manggeon. To make sure the hats stay in place. Design depends on rank.
Manggeon – 망건
To keep their long manes tamed a headband is used. As a smart looking gentleman you can’t have your hair covering up your face.
Sangtugwan – 상투관
The small crown used on topknot.
If you have more information on these Korean hats. It was very hard to find as I don’t speak Korean myself. I could not find good pictures from dramas/films for every hat. If you have suggestions or information, please post/contact.